mademoiselle privée

twenty-something girl living in a très chic world

Posts tagged maria grazia chiuri

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red valentino fall/winter 2012-13. pier paolo piccioli & maria grazia chiuri have been as successful co-designers as they could be. in piccioli’s words, the diffusion collection is a romantic idea of a young girl thinking about fashion: mixing something new w/something vintage w/something couture. the result is full of charm: tulle ruffled cocktail dresses that look as sweet as they sound, fitted pants w/cashmere capes for day & for evening, a brocade jacket. w/a simple & feminine colour palette — blacks, off-whites & shades of blush — it has the potential to be as popular as its big-sister collection, valentino. & w/so many items to pick from, i’d love to see a store in canada/united-states soon.

view the complete lookbook here.

Filed under style.com fashion campaign lookbook valentino pastels red valentino pier paolo piccioli maria grazia chiuri romantic floral shoes vintage couture feminine girlish dollface sweet

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designers maria grazia chiuri & pier paolo piccioli refashion valentino’s distinct feminine ideal to create a modern glamour that is all their own. their breathtaking creations reveal what makes haute couture special, but it’s the hands of valentino’s roman atelier staff that spin magic into material & bring the chiuri & piccioli vision to life.

light as thistledown & shown on pale, lithe girls, valentino couture spring 2012 references valentino’s own romantic clothes from the early 70s, especially in the use of faded flower-sprigged organza, often veiled & shadowed in point d’esprit & lace.

the designers use warp-printed taffetas of the sort that marie antoinette favored for frolics, woven w/subtle foliate motifs & an eighteenth-century toile (in a soft rust red) representing africa for a strapless ball dress w/ballooning skirts. four-leaf clovers or posies of violets printed over airy organza & shadowed w/layers of tulle & lace, like belle époque tea gowns. at the neck, a prim ruffle of lace.

tailored pieces revealed a stricter hand: sleek ivory cape over lean pants, or jersey or double-face dresses w/hand detailing of extraordinary subtlety & skill; princess seams of a little dress finished with rows of self-fabric piping spirals, graduated in scale from shoulder to hem (required 450m of fabric); 1,000hrs of labor went into the handwork on a dress of elaborately smocked organza; 1,250hrs into the sparkling silver embroidery on a chine taffeta redingote based on an eighteenth-century version; & 800hrs to weave the warp-print faille for one of the ball dresses.

view the complete collection here.

Filed under fashion fashionising valentino haute couture couture spring 2012 maria grazia chiuri fashion designer designer pier paolo piccioli rome roman atelier models model modelling runway show fashion show fashion runway romantic romance 70s 1970 flower flowers floral organza lace embroidery embellishment